If you walk into any custom shirt clothier, chances are they are bound to have hundreds of fabric options for you to choose from. Where should you begin, and how do you decide which kind of fabric to ultimately use? Though most tailors should educate you throughout the process to help determine which one is best for your wardrobe needs, we’ve created a brief guide to help you be armed with the tools necessary to make an informed decision.

1. Broadcloth
   2. Poplin (or Popline)

Comparing them in modern times, these two names have the same basic description and are commonly interchangeable. Both are a plain weave (see below) which means it is durable and long-lasting. This is usually the most common type of shirting that you’ll see available.

3. Pinpoint
4. Oxford
5. Basket Weave

These next three fabrics are all related. Pinpoint belongs to the Oxford cotton series, and Oxfords have a basketweave. You’ll see in the picture below that the weft goes over two warp threads. A pinpoint has a finer hand but higher thread count than a traditional Oxford, making it a common choice for mens dress shirts.

A Royal Oxford fabric is a true basketweave, where multiple warp and wefts cross over one another. Typically, this number is between two and four.  This results in a visible distinction, and oftentimes multiple colors are used to create it. With basket weaves, the inconsistency in the way they are made makes them a less durable option and can easily be snagged.

6. TWILL
7. GABARDINE

This is another grouping of fabrics. The Twill is the actual weave name, and Gabardine is a variation of a twill. The weave on this type of fabric is a diagonal effect. Because of their secure construction, they are highly durable, although their texture makes cleaning somewhat difficult.

8. LINEN

Linen fabrics are made from flax plants. It is made from a strong, plain weave and has great absorbency. This fabric is also extremely breathable, which is why its favored during the warmer months. Though it has a lot of great qualities, linen in nature wrinkles very easily, and tends to have a more visible texture so it is often reserved for casual shirts.

If you’re interested in purchasing custom shirts, you can schedule your appointment with one of our expert tailors here.

In our next blog post, we’ll be discussing the various types of cottons. Be sure to subscribe to our newsletter to receive our latest sales, new products, and posts!