Whether you have purchased a suit in the past or plan to in the future, you may have heard terms like full canvas, half canvas, and fused suits thrown around. The importance of each of these signifies how your suit is constructed and the overall quality of the suit. Full canvas suits display the most high-end choice of the three, fused suits are the lowest quality, and half canvas suits are somewhere in between the two. I’ll give a walk through of the pros and cons of each one to aid in your suit selection! If you need any more assistance and have any other questions, feel free to leave a comment and I will get to it as soon as I can!
Full Canvas Suits
The construction of a full canvas suit is superior to that of a fused or half canvas suit. Full canvas suits include an interfacing horsehair or goat hair canvas sewn between the lining and cloth of the jacket. This canvas covers the shoulder shield, collar, lapel, and goes down the front of the suit past the front pockets. This interfacing lining provides longevity to your suit and allows the jacket to drape properly allowing it to shape to your body over time. All aspects of a full canvas suit are fully sewn, with no glue, making them the top choice of all custom suit options. Since full canvas suits take more time to produce and require more manual labor, the cost is considerably higher in comparison to half canvas and fused suits. In the image below, note the white area of the jacket where the canvassing will be placed.
Half Canvas Suits
Half Canvas suits are very common and share attributes of a full canvas suit and fused suit. As mentioned above, canvas suits include the interfacing lining of horsehair or goat hair. In the half canvas option, the canvas generally covers the shoulder shield, collar, and lapel. The bottom part of the suit is fused with glue and does not include the canvas between the cloth and lining. While this is not ideal, the most important parts of the suit are canvassed and still provide a very high quality option for consumers on a budget. The suit will still shape to your body over time around the shoulders and chest which are most vital. Compared to the first image, note that the only canvassed area of this jacket is in the shoulder/chest area.
Fused suits are generally what you will see off the rack. Because they can be mass manufactured very easily, the prices are much lower, but the quality lacks as well. Fused suits don’t possess any sort of canvassing and because they are essentially glued together, they also lack durability and flexibility. The fusible interlining of the suit is glued to the wool shell of the suit jacket in the front panels and lapels. While this does give the jacket shape, it does not take the shape of the person wearing it and has a very stiff feeling. If you want to look like a square (literally), this inexpensive option will help you get there.
Thank you as always for reading the insight our tailors provide. Artful Tailoring is Arizona’s premiere tailoring option. With two locations in central Phoenix and Chandler, Artful Tailoring can service the needs of anyone located in the valley. If you’re ever in the area, we’d love to meet you and help you with any of your tailoring needs.