May 10, 2018 / Leave a Comment
Artful Tailoring has your solution!
Let’s be honest…suit manufacturers don’t make suits to fit every body type. If you’re one of the lucky few who can try on an off the rack suit and it fits perfectly, congratulations! However, if you’re apart of the majority of the population who aren’t so lucky, we have rounded up a few common fit problems you may have seen with your existing wardrobe.
Tailors have the expertise to determine not only whats causing your issues, but also how to solve them.
Bagginess at the hem
If your pants bunch up a lot at the hem, it might be due to a slim leg. The smaller the hem opening, the less room the fabric has to lay flat. We recommend getting a smaller break on pants that are 7.5″ at the hem opening and slimmer. It will make you look taller, and have an overall cleaner look.
The Lapel Gape
If you put on your jacket and notice the dreaded lapel gape, there are several reasons for this.
1. Low shoulder(s): Every person’s physique varies, especially the shoulders. For those with sloped shoulders, or if you have had a physical inquiry on one side, this could be what’s causing the gape. There is excess fabric and it is jutting out instead of laying flat on the body. This also contributes to bagginess at the front on your shirt. A custom suit or shirt can be adjusted for this in the pattern making process. If you have an off-the-rack suit, ask the tailor to add shoulder pads to help lift up the gape.
2. Large/oversized chest: This is very common in athletic body shapes. If your chest area is larger than the average man, you may encounter the gape. Letting out the chest area will aid in this, but a custom suit is highly encouraged to solve this problem.
3. Jacket is too tight: If you have a normal physique, but the jacket is tugging or pulling at the chest area, this means that the jacket is too slim. Oftentimes, a simple move of the front buttons can give you 1/4-1/2″, but each case varies. If more room is needed, letting out the jacket seams (if there is extra material inside) can help.
Shoulder Divot
This is one of the most common problems for suits is a visible shoulder divot. When purchasing a suit, the most important thing to make sure it fits in the shoulders, as this is one of the most costliest alterations to fix. Shoulder divots are caused when the width of the bicep area is not proportionate to the size of the armhole. Those with larger biceps may have this problem more often, as suit manufacturers typically do not cut with athletic people in mind. If you’re searching for the perfect fit, you may need to go up a suit size and have the waist taken in or opt for a custom jacket.
Back Roll
Another noticeable problem with jackets is the back collar roll. Those with square shoulders typically encounter this more often, as the cut of the jacket was not made for this body type. One solution is to have the tailor open the collar and take up the excess fabric. However, this alteration is costly and may not completely solve the problem. If you have tried multiple off the rack options and are not happy, consider investing in some custom jackets that are cut to your unique shape.
“X” Shape
If the jacket you’re wearing looks like the one above, take it off and head to a good tailor shop. Although the slim fit style has been wildly popular in recent years, if you see the “x” shape, you’ve gone too far. The jacket is too tight, and needs to be let out. This strain could also be caused by the shoulder/back area as well, so ask your tailor if its a “fix” or “ditch”.
Wrinkles on the sleeve
You may not have paid much attention to the sleeves, but if you’re searching for a superior fitting suit, take a second look the next time you try one on. If your arm is in a resting position at your sides and you see severe wrinkling, the position of the sleeve needs to be adjusted. When sewing in the sleeves of a jacket, they are placed at a particular angle. Those that experience this can vary. Rotating sleeves can be very costly but under the proper care, the outcome is incredibly significant.
Both of our locations offer a full-service alterations shop! Check which one is closest to you below:
Biltmore Fashion Park
2502 E. Camelback Road Suite 105
Phoenix, AZ 85016
602-955-0919
Elliot Fountains Plaza
2950 N. Dobson Road Suite 8
Chandler, AZ 85224
480-857-3800