Tips
Below is a sampling of Fashion Tips that we at Artful Tailoring are happy to share. For more expert style advice, visit our Master Tailor at our Phoenix store, or check our blog regularly for new helpful tips.
What are hand stitched lapels and pockets?
Hand stitched lapels and pockets are features that go back to the days when all suits were only done by hand. In this sort of construction, the edges of the jacket were sewn in by hand to retain the integrity of the jacket and smooth the edges. This hand sewing created small ripple effects on the jacket lapels and pockets. In high-end suits, you will find this tiny ´dog tooth stitches´ on the lapels. We offer this as an optional feature in our suits and replicate the older traditional suit construction method by hand.
What is the difference between a Notch Lapel and Peak Lapel?
A notch lapel is when there is a 45 to 90 degree angle of separation between the collar and the lapel at the point where they join. The collar is the part that goes around the neck and the lapel is the part that sits on the front of the chest. In a notch lapel, there is a wide space separating the outer most tip of the collar from the outer most tip of the lapel. In a peak lapel, the lapel rises up and beyond the collar tip so as to create a peak of sorts. Separation between the collar and the lapel in this case is less than 1 degree due to the fact that the lapel rises upwards and by default therefore runs parallel to the outer rim of the collar.
What is a gorge?
The gorge is that point where the lapels meet in the front and create a V of sorts between which the necktie is visible against the background of the shirt. The coat´s design determines its positioning.
There are three kind of gorges on a suit coat :
1 - Low/ Long Gorge- This is when the lapels are cut very low towards the stomach so that more of the shirt and tie are visible.
2 - Mid Gorge- This is when the lapels are slightly lengthened in proportion to the overall length of the jacket but not so much as to make it a visibly low gorge.
3 - High Gorge- When the lapels are cut very high towards the neck so as to reduce the amount of tie visible between the two lines of the jacket on the chest. The length of the gorge though depends on a lot of factors such as suit styles, the height of the wearer (which in turn determines the length of the jacket and hence the gorge), the number of buttons on the jacket and so on.
What is a vent?
Vents are openings on the backs of jackets. Classic Suit styles usually have only one vent in the center back of the jacket. Vintage styles will sometimes have double vents in the back, set off to both sides.
What is a placket covered front?
Placket covered fronts are usually found in some shirts and sometimes can be a feature in trendy stylishly long jackets. The placket is when the front buttons are covered by a flap that runs from the collar band down to the edge of the jacket or shirt making them invisible
How should I care for my garments?
Generally all wool items must be dry cleaned only. Cotton and cotton blends can be machine washed in cold water (though we recommend hand washing for durability). Pure silk or silk blends should of course, be hand washed or dry-cleaned only.
No item should have a hot iron applied directly but should always have a white linen cloth between the iron and the custom garment or better still, should be ironed from the reverse side or steam pressed. Only use very hot irons for pressing pure cotton cloth.
We also recommend natural drying over machine drying and hand wash over machine wash for all our cotton and cotton blend products.
What are the payment options at Artful Tailoring?
We accept cash, check and most credit cards (Sorry no American Express or Discover). Can I pay by telephone? Yes, we will be happy to assist you over the phone. Call us at (480) 857-3800.Do you visit my area to take orders or measurements? Yes it is possible, for an additional cost special arrangements can be made. Call us at (480) 857-3800 or email us (info@artfultailoring.com) to discuss this further.
Do I need an appointment?
Not necessarily, but it is recommended.
Do I need to bring my shoes with me?
For dresses, yes it is far superior if you have them. For pants shoes are not necessary but we would like to know what size of heel you like to wear with them.
